Changes can still be made as long as the order has not yet been paid for. Please get in touch with us if you wish to do so.

You can find the delivery times on the relevant product pages. If a bike is available but the delivery date is still a few weeks or months away, this means that the bike is available for pre-order and can already be ordered.

You have the option of collecting your fully assembled bike in person from our showroom in Horgenzell. You cannot collect your bike without booking an appointment. It is not possible to change the collection point at a later date.

We ship your bike throughout Europe via GLS & FEDEX, or via Go! Express within Germany. If your bike is being shipped by a haulage contractor, our delivery provider will contact you to arrange a delivery date.

Your bike will arrive in a box, fully assembled, perfectly adjusted and ready to go. All you need to do is take the bike out of the box and carry out the following assembly steps yourself: 

 1. Straighten the handlebars

 2. Fit the front wheel 

 3. Adjust the saddle to the correct height

 4. Screw on the pedals

You’ll find your bike’s frame number directly on the frame, below the bottom bracket. If you can’t find your frame number, please feel free to contact us. We’ll be happy to help.

As soon as your order leaves our warehouse, you’ll receive a dispatch confirmation from us by email – including a link to track your parcel via the relevant courier’s website.

If the bike has been damaged in transit, please contact us straight away with photos of the damage and your order number. We will then arrange a quick solution, either by repairing it or replacing it.

We deliver within the EU, to Switzerland, the UK and Norway.

You can find detailed information about the relevant delivery charges on our delivery charges page.

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Payment in advance 

Pay for your order in advance by bank transfer. Once you have placed your order, we will send you an email containing the invoice and details for the bank transfer. As soon as we have received your payment, we will dispatch your items. Please note that the amount will be debited from your account immediately, but it will take 1–3 working days to reach our bank account. 

PayPal 

PayPal payment is available for all orders from our online shop. Once you have completed your order, you will be automatically redirected to the PayPal website to finalise your payment. Your PayPal account will be debited directly. We also offer PayPal instalment payments. 

Credit card 

Secure and convenient payment by credit card via the payment provider Mollie Payment. Your credit card will be charged as soon as we dispatch your items. Any other payment options?

We offer financing for all bikes through a range of company bike leasing providers. Your employer leases your bike through one of our partners. In return, a monthly instalment is deducted from your gross salary. With the company bike leasing scheme, you can save up to 40% compared to buying outright, thanks to the favourable tax treatment. 

At checkout, simply select this payment method and then enter your email address or ID (which one?) as well as the leasing provider in the comments field for processing. You can find detailed information on company bike leasing here. (Link to the service article below) Our company bike partners 

Jobrad 

Lease a Bike Business Bike 

Company Bike 

Eleasa 

Eurorad 

My company bike 

Bike Leasing 

Würth Leasing

1. Choosing your bike First, select your chosen bike from our online shop and place your order using the ‘Dienstrad Financing’ payment option. Check with your employer to find out which company bike leasing provider they work with. Please enter this information in the comments field when placing your order. Once we have received your order, we will send you a quote. 
2. Signing the leasing contract Once you’ve chosen your bike, your employer will sign a leasing contract for the bike with the leasing company. The term is usually 36 months. The bike remains the property of the lessor during this period. 
3. Take advantage of salary sacrifice and tax benefits The leasing instalment is deducted directly from your gross salary – a process known as salary sacrifice. As the instalment is deducted from your gross salary, your taxable income is reduced. This means you benefit from tax advantages and pay less in social security contributions and income tax. 
4. Use of the bicycle You can use the leased bicycle both for your commute to work and for private purposes. Many employers also offer leasing even if you do not explicitly need the bicycle for your commute, so you can use it in your free time or for sporting activities. 
5. Insurance and servicing Many leasing contracts include insurance (e.g. against theft and damage) as well as services such as inspections. This ensures that you can ride your bike worry-free throughout the leasing period.
6. At the end of the lease term Once the lease agreement has expired, you have three different options: Purchase of the bike: You can buy the bike at its residual value. This is usually between 10–18 per cent of the original purchase price. Returning the bike: You can simply return the bike to the lessor. Renewing the lease: You can lease another bike of your choice, in which case a new lease agreement must be concluded

You can buy your bike from us VAT-free if you have selected the ‘shipping’ option and the delivery address is in Switzerland. If you have chosen to collect your bike or have it shipped within Germany, the VAT will be refunded upon export to Switzerland. We will provide you with an export certificate, which you must have stamped by customs and then email back to us.

In addition to the statutory warranty, we also offer a voluntary 2-year manufacturer’s warranty from the date of purchase on frames, VPACE forks and cranksets. Valid for the original purchaser. The guarantee covers defects in materials and workmanship. Damage caused by external factors and wear and tear are excluded from the guarantee. Exceeding the permissible total weight, overloading or improper use will invalidate the guarantee: 

• Damage to the derailleur hanger is also excluded from the warranty.  
• Any deformation of the frame is excluded from the warranty, but may be covered under our Crash Replacement Programme 
• Use contrary to the intended purpose, failure to comply with safety regulations, incorrect assembly or repair, and the use of unauthorised spare parts and accessories will also result in the warranty claim being voided.

Accidents happen, so to get you back on the road quickly, we offer a crash replacement service. This means you send us photos of the frame and a description of how the accident happened. Once we’ve assessed the situation, we’ll send you a quote for a replacement frame at a reduced price.

As the manufacturer, we are your direct point of contact if your bike has a fault. Some component manufacturers also offer a direct service to end customers. This is usually quicker, as the faulty parts do not have to go via us first. You’ll find an overview of component manufacturers below. 

In the event of a warranty claim, the process is always determined by the decision of the relevant component manufacturer. Costs for spare parts, workshop labour, postage, customs duties or other charges will only be covered following prior approval of the costs. Please note that the procedure may differ in countries outside the EU. If you are unsure, it is best to contact us in advance.

As well as height, inside leg length also plays an important role in determining the right bike size/frame size. To ensure your child can ride safely, their inside leg length should be at least equal to the top tube height of the selected size. 

If your child is between two sizes, the choice will depend on their riding style and intended use. This is because, in principle, the length of the seatpost and stem can be adjusted to adapt the smaller or larger frame size to your child’s current body measurements, thereby allowing you to make the most of the growth range of a bike/frame size of up to 20 centimetres.  We always recommend the smaller size if you’re looking for an agile bike for your child to use in competitive sport, or if your child isn’t quite as experienced on a bike yet, as this makes handling off-road a little easier and therefore offers greater safety.  

To work out the inseam length, stand your child barefoot and upright with their back against a wall, wedge a book between their legs and pull it upwards so that the top edge is level with their crotch. Now measure the distance from the floor to the top edge of the book. The length you have measured is your child’s inseam. 

Choosing the right bike depends on several factors, including its intended use (cross-country racing, bike park, touring). The MAX is a versatile and lightweight mountain bike designed specifically for cross-country racing. The MORITZ is a lightweight all-mountain trail full-suspension bike. Its low weight makes it suitable for touring in alpine terrain. FRED: a downhill bike designed for use in the bike park.

On the one hand, you can really put our bikes through their paces at our Test Centre partners (link to Test Centre page) (and experience the VPACE ‘aha’ moment), and on the other hand, you can visit our showroom (link to showroom page) in Horgenzell, where you can view all our kids’ bikes and even take them for a test ride. Of course, we’ll also help you choose the right size. 

 The VPACE Kidsbikes showroom in Horgenzell is open Monday to Friday, from 10 am to 5 pm, and on the first Saturday of every month from 10 am to 1 pm. 

 You should also be aware that, unfortunately, we cannot sell test bikes directly from the showroom, as these are intended solely for test rides.

VPACE sells its bikes directly to end customers via its online shop. However, once you’ve placed your order and your bike is ready, you also have the option of collecting it directly from our showroom in Horgenzell, rather than having it delivered to your home. To do this, please arrange a collection appointment with us so that we can set aside enough time for you when handing it over. 

A suspension system optimally tuned to the rider’s weight is key to grip, control, comfort and safety. It not only helps young cyclists navigate the terrain faster, but also in a more relaxed and energy-efficient manner, giving them confidence on descents and efficiency on climbs.

For this, you’ll need: 

• Shock pump
• Tape measure or ruler
• Cable ties or O-ring
• possibly an Allen key
• the weight of the young rider in full cycling kit

1. Basic air pressure / SAG setup

The SAG (negative travel) determines how far the suspension compresses whilst the bike is stationary, solely due to the rider’s body weight – it therefore directly affects balance, traction and comfort. All manufacturers provide initial guidance on the correct air pressure on their websites and, in some cases, on the suspension forks themselves. To do this, first slide the O-ring onto the sealing lip of the fork and shock. If there is no O-ring, you can use a small cable tie as a makeshift solution for adjusting the SAG. You must, however, remove this before riding. You adjust the SAG by having your child sit on the bike fully kitted out and compress the suspension a few times whilst stationary – ideally with your help. Then your child should dismount carefully without compressing the suspension again. You can now measure the distance between the O-ring and the seal on the shock absorber and suspension fork. The optimum SAG is 

 • approx. 20–25 per cent of the total travel for the fork 

 • for the shock, approx. 25–30% of the total travel 

If the SAG is too low, you’ll need to reduce the air pressure slightly. If it’s too high, you’ll need to increase the air pressure accordingly. Here you’ll find further information on the basic set-up for RockShox, Fox and Manitou.

Why breaking in is important and how to do it properly.

To ensure that disc brakes can deliver their full braking power and do not make any unpleasant noises, new brake pads and brake discs need to be ‘run in’ together 

Why is bedding-in necessary?

New brake pads have a rough surface, whilst the brake disc is still smooth. It is only through the bedding-in process that a uniform contact surface is created, enabling maximum braking performance and minimising annoying squeaking or uneven pad wear.

How to bed in disc brakes correctly

Find a stretch of road that is as flat and clear of traffic as possible. Start at a moderate speed (20 to 25 km/h), then gently brake down to a speed of around 5 km/h without bringing the wheels to a complete standstill. This generates heat in the braking system, which is necessary for the pads and disc to bed in properly. You should now repeat this braking manoeuvre 20 to 30 times in a row, with a short break in between each one. Avoid heavy braking or coming to a sudden halt whilst running in the brakes, as this can lead to uneven wear on the brake pads. The more often you do this, the better the brake pads will bed in against the disc, and the quieter and more effective the brakes will be. After the bedding-in period Over the first few kilometres, you should check that the brakes are operating evenly and quietly, and that they are delivering their full braking performance. A slight grinding noise may still occur at first, but this should disappear over time. If the braking power remains unusually weak or persistent noises occur, simply start a second run-in cycle

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All VPACE wheelsets come fitted with tubeless-ready rims and tyres as standard. All you need in addition are tubeless valves, a suitable sealant and a special, airtight, self-adhesive tubeless rim tape. The advantage of a tubeless setup is greater puncture resistance and more grip off-road, as you can ride with lower tyre pressure.

What you need to convert to tubeless:

• Tubeless rim tape 

• Tubeless valves 

• Sealant 

• Tyre levers (preferably plastic) 

• Floor pump (preferably with a booster tank or a compressor) 

Step 1: Prepare the rims

• Remove tyres, inner tubes and, if necessary, the old tubeless rim tape

• Clean the rims – they must be dry and free of grease. 

• Stick the new tubeless rim tape on tightly: stretch it slightly, with a 1–2 cm overlap at the end 

• Use a sharp object to make a small hole at the valve opening Step 2: Insert the valve • Insert the tubeless valve through the hole.

• Tighten with the knurled nut.

• It must be rock-solid – no wobble. 

Step 3: Fitting the tyre

• Press one side of the tyre completely onto the rim.

• Before you fully close the second sidewall: Pour in the sealant (quantity as per the manufacturer’s instructions, usually 60–120 ml). Alternatively: Unscrew the valve core and pour the sealant in through the valve later. 

• Allow the second sidewall to snap into place. To do this, press the tyre all the way round into the rim bed, where the rim is at its deepest; this makes fitting it a little easier. 

Step 4: Inflate the tyre

• To ensure the tyre seals against the rim, a strong burst of air is often required. Use either a compressor, a tubeless booster or a floor pump.

• Make sure that both sidewalls make an audible ‘pop’ and seat properly in the rim. 

Step 5: Apply sealant (once the tyre is in place and holding air):

• Shake the wheel

• Turn the wheel 

• Tilt it to the side The sealant must reach every part of the tyre.

Step 6: Check

• Some air may escape during the first 24 hours → top up the pressure.

• After a few days, check that it remains airtight.

• Check the sealing fluid every 2–3 months and top up if necessary.

How to fit pedals quickly and easily

 You’ll need the following tools:

• 15 mm open-ended or pedal spanner (for pedals with a tool slot on the outside of the axle)
• 6 or 8 mm Allen key (for pedals with a tool slot on the inside of the axle)
• Assembly grease

• Place the bike firmly and securely on the floor or, if possible, secure it in a bike stand. 
• Identify the right and left pedals by the markings ‘R’ (right) and ‘L’ (left).
 Please note that the left-hand pedal has a left-hand thread and must therefore be tightened anti-clockwise to prevent it from coming loose whilst riding. • Clean the threads on the cranks and pedals with a cloth.
• Apply a little grease or assembly paste to the pedal thread to prevent seizing. 

• Position the left pedal so that the ‘L’ marking aligns directly with the left crank arm from the outside.
• Now screw it in by hand, turning anti-clockwise. You should not feel any resistance. If you do, carefully unscrew it and reposition it to avoid damaging the thread.
• After the first few turns by hand, you can use the pedal spanner or Allen key to help. Please note that the Allen key must be inserted from the opposite side, and the direction of screwing changes from this angle.
• Now repeat the process with the right-hand pedal. This is screwed in clockwise when viewed from the outside.

• Tighten both pedals gently.
• Ideally, you should use a torque wrench for this – 35 Nm is standard (follow the manufacturer’s instructions). 
• If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the pedals until they are hand-tight, then give them a further quarter turn.

As one of three contact points, the saddle plays a key role in ensuring riding comfort and optimum power transfer. When correctly adjusted, it helps to prevent discomfort whilst sitting, and even knee or hip problems. 

You’ll need this tool:

• Allen key set
• Torque wrench
• String for a plumb line
• Spirit level

• Sit your child on the bike wearing cycling shoes and position their heel on the pedal. When the pedal is at the lowest point, their knee should be almost fully extended, but still slightly bent. 
• Now adjust the saddle height accordingly. To do this, loosen the clamping bolt on the seat tube anti-clockwise, adjust the seat post up or down, and then retighten the clamping bolt to the specified torque. 
• Test the adjustment as described above with both pedals. Make sure that their hips remain straight and that your child does not slide from side to side on the saddle. 
• Your child can now take a short test ride to check whether the normal foot position (the ball of the foot over the pedal axle) feels natural. 

• Take a piece of string and attach a plumb line or one of the Allen keys to it. 
• Sit your child on the bike and position their feet in the normal riding position on the pedals, with the right pedal pointing forwards and parallel to the ground. 
• Now hold the plumb line so that the string brushes against the centre of the pedal axle and runs roughly behind the kneecap at the top. 
• Loosen the bolt(s) on the seat post head and move the saddle to the desired position, either forwards or backwards. Then retighten the bolt(s) to the required torque. 

• Adjusting the saddle tilt allows you to optimise your child’s seating position to prevent pressure points or slipping. 
• Here, too, start by loosening the bolt(s) on the seatpost clamp. The basic setting should result in a horizontal line from the front to the rear contact points. You can check this by eye or using a spirit level. 
• To reduce pressure around the front of the saddle, you can tilt it slightly downwards. However, do not tilt it by more than 3–4°, otherwise your child will slide forwards whilst riding, which will require corrective movements and increase the pressure again.

The horizontal top tube length

The top tube length is one of the factors that determines the riding position on the bike – whether it is more ‘stretched out’ or ‘compact’. It is therefore an indicator of how sporty or comfortable the riding position is. It is measured along an imaginary horizontal line from the centre of the top of the head tube to the centreline of the seat tube.

The stack

The stack describes the vertical distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top edge of the head tube. It thus measures the height of the front of the frame and significantly determines the riding position – in other words, how upright or stretched out you sit. A high stack results in a more upright and comfortable riding position, whilst a low stack leads to a more sporty riding position with greater pressure on the front wheel.

The Reach

‘Reach’ refers to the length of the main frame. It is measured as the horizontal distance between the centre of the bottom bracket and the centre of the upper end of the head tube. A longer reach results in a more stretched-out riding position and provides a smoother ride and greater stability. A shorter reach, on the other hand, offers more agile handling.

Bottom Bracket Drop

This is the vertical distance by which the centre of the bottom bracket lies lower than the line between the hubs (front and rear axles). A greater bottom bracket drop results in a lower centre of gravity, thereby providing greater stability and more agile cornering. However, this can mean that you’re more likely to bottom out on the pedals when tackling technical climbs with roots and rocks or on tight, steep bends.

To complete the final assembly of your VPACE kids’ bike, you will need the following tools:

• Allen keys (4, 5, 6, 8 mm)
• Torque wrench
• Pedal spanner

Here is an overview of the tightening torques for all key bolts on the frame and components:

• Seat post 5 Nm 
• Stem 5Nm 
• Grips 2Nm 
• Cable guides and bottle cages 3Nm 
• Crankset 5Nm 
• Rear triangle bottom bracket 15 Nm 
• Derailleur hanger 2 Nm 
• Thru-axle 10 Nm 
• Front and rear shock mounts 10 Nm

When it comes to wheel size, we have consistently adhered to our ‘29er’ principle from the very start, which is based on larger wheels, following the example of 29er MTBs. The advantages of larger wheels are that they roll much more easily over obstacles on rough terrain, offer maximum smoothness and riding stability, and thus ensure greater safety and control. On top of that, the kids can also get around a fair bit faster.

A dropper seatpost, also known as a Vario seatpost or dropper post, offers a significant boost in comfort, control and, above all, safety, both on descents and when mounting and dismounting the bike. This allows the saddle height to be easily adjusted to suit the terrain whilst riding, at the touch of a button from the handlebars. This enables maximum freedom of movement, a lower centre of gravity on descents, contact with the ground when mounting and dismounting, and an efficient, ergonomic riding position when climbing.

Sometimes a fall or a stone chip can damage the paintwork. To prevent this, you can buy a frame protection film from our shop. 

Unfortunately, we no longer stock touch-up pens, but here are the colour shades from our Asian paint manufacturer YS:

• MightyCandy/Crazy Pink – YS7448
• Intergalactic Blue – YS763
• Hurricane Grey - YS7363
• Poison Green – YS7440
• TRAIL BLUE – YS7350
• Kamikaze Red - YS733
• Petrol Blue – YS7366
• Yellow, YS-7413
• Purple, YS-783
• Dark petrol, YS-7352
• Hurricane Grey, YS-7368
• Black, YS-728 – we recommend an EDDING 750 touch-up pen in black
• Grey – YS-7358
• Red FRED – YS706
• Juicy Orange – YS7884
• Mighty Green – YS7830

1. Tighten screws correctly

Tighten all screws (seat post, stem, bottle cage, etc.) using a torque wrench in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. If they are too tight or too loose, this often causes noise.

2. Clean contact points

Remove the fittings, clean them thoroughly to remove dirt, dust and old grease residues, and refit them clean.

3. Use carbon assembly paste

Apply special carbon assembly paste to the contact surfaces of carbon parts (e.g. seat post, handlebars, stem). This increases friction and prevents movement.

To ensure that suspension forks and shock absorbers perform to their full potential, they need to be serviced regularly. You can find the service intervals on the manufacturers’ websites:

FOX

RockShox

Manitou

The system weight refers to the bicycle, including the rider and equipment. You can find the permitted system weight for each model on the individual product pages.

Please use our returns form for this.

You are responsible for the return postage costs, unless the return is due to a valid complaint or a warranty claim – please contact us beforehand in such cases. You are generally entitled to return the goods within 14 days of purchase without giving a reason.